Eastbound...estimated time of arrival- 5 days!

 Before I even begin writing this blog, I want to inform all my fellow Bhutan Canada Foundation colleagues that this blog is for you. Those who shared (5) long days on a small Tashitse school bus will be able to relate and reminisce while reading this blog. I had no idea that a road trip across Bhutan would turn into some of the fondest memories that I have made.  I will never forget the most uncomfortable, hilarious, gorgeous, cramped, sing-along filled bus ride that I ever had to endure.

It all began on February 4^th around 7AM in the morning. As you recall form my last blog…all our bags were packed and we were heading East, to each members postings for our final “Shu lay log ja gays” which is “See you later” in Dzongkha.  All teachers except for Davey, Sarah, and Noorin would accompany me on this scenic ride through Bhutan. However, luckily they were able to go along with us on our last tourist event to Dochula .  Arriving at this monument was the most magnificent sight. I couldn’t believe that this beautiful place was not even 10 years old. This was not only beautiful, but it was at 11,000 feet above sea level. As I began walking up the steps I started to feel extremely light-headed. I thought nothing of it and followed suite to remove my shoes and enter this fortress of blessing and memory. The Director of Institute at Dochula met us and began to explain the significance of every piece of artwork that showed the history of Bhutan. I began listening to the story of how this unique place  was founded; in 2003 by the Queen Mother in tribute and appreciation of a successful military coup in which Bhutan drove threatening insurgents outside its borders; her Husband and Son both fought in this battle and returned unharmed, thankfully. As I was concentrating on the history of Bhutan I suddenly had to focus on not passing out. A feeling that I had never felt before in my entire life, ALTITUDE SICKINESS!!  It was overpowering and before I fainted right in front of the Director, I kindly excused myself to Nancy (Executive BCF founder) and informed her of what I was feeling. She immediately pulled me outside and told me to sit, breathe, eat sugar candy, and drink plenty of water. I couldn’t believe this!! Here I am, invited to the most unbelievable place and I am outside about to pass out. My head was spinning a mile a minute and every time I thought the feeling had passed, it would come back to haunt me! I sat at the top of this beautiful monument feeling miserable. I mainly felt this way because I was missing out on the final group experience and I was unable to control this feeling of altitude sickness. Karma eventually took me down the long flight of stairs and the Director of Institute offered me tea and crackers. About 30 minutes later the altitude sickness finally went away.
 I was able to walk around the Druk Wangyal Chortens and have a personal conversation with the Monk about the 2003 conflicts in Bhutan. I was most grateful he took the time to ask how I was feeling, as well inform me on why all of this was built. After finally adjusting to the altitude, a stronger emotion took over when I had to say goodbye to (3) of my fellow BCFers. Noorin, Simon, and Sarah would not accompany us any further because they were all heading to the southern area of Bhutan, instead of East like the rest of us. It did bring a few tears, but excitement as well. I knew that the 5 day road trip was finally making headway deep into the heart of Bhutan.   

To say the bus over packed and uncomfortable would be an understatement. Martha, in the front seat next to our exceptional bus driver, Tim behind her, then a stretch of seats that included Simon, Sheal, and Sabrina, behind them Martin and Tara, and last seats included Becky and I. As luck would have it, I had the back (2) seats all to myself after Davey departed us.  The bus was a little quiet, but it was Martin and Tara that continuously kept my spirits high. After 30 minutes of silence and sight-seeing, it was music (karaoke) that helped this road trip move along. Before, I get to my sing- alongs, I must mention the roads, construction, death dropping heights, and beautiful sceneries I was able to witness on this road trip.

First, I must mention the roads. If you have ever watched Deadliest Roads, you may get a small idea of what I witnessed firsthand. Bhutan is an underdeveloped country as many of you may know and that means almost everything including the roads are under construction.  This does not mean in America where the roads are nicely paved and only one lane is open, this means they are tearing into the mountain to make this dirt road wider.  This was the craziest event I had ever seen. We were on the side of a mountain, packed in a school bus driving through dirt roads. When I say construction that also means that traffic is at a standstill. It’s no highway 64 heading into St. Louis, it is people of all walks of life getting out of their cars to stretch, eat, talk, and even walk up to see the construction workers doing their job. The people were so calm; enjoying the lush vegetation on the mountainside, chatting, and some even going to the bathroom on the side of this mountain.  I couldn’t believe my eyes! Everyone had some place to go and a specific time to be there, but no one seemed irritated or distressed that this road would not open for another 30 minutes. My colleagues and I took a leisurely stroll and by the time we heading back to our bus, the traffic was ready to move. The road would be open for 30 minutes and those who didn’t make it through would have to wait for a longer period of time. Did I mention my love for guard railing on roads now? There are few passes and sections where there is any protection from falling straight down into the depths of these valleys. Just having a window seat makes your heart flutter thinking of these insane drop-offs where you could plummet to your death at any moment. Oh yes, how could I forget the horn honking?! As I witnessed, it is protocol to honk your horn if you are going around a sharp curve. Yes, that means “HONK, HONK” I am coming so you better pull over and allow me to pass. It was such an experience to watch our bus driver maneuver this bus on these narrow roads. These huge trucks from India would “challenge” the road with us and Tara and I would make the western movie showdown music, without the Tumble weeds of course. It was like unknown rules of the road. Without even speaking the drivers would reverse, pull over, and allow the other vehicle through. I couldn’t believe it. Drivers were so considerate on these narrow, unpaved, and dusty roads. Thank goodness for our well accustomed bus driver who made sure we all arrived safely to our postings.

Flat tire

Lastly, the sights, the flat tire, and the many places we stayed. The first night after arriving in Trongsa around 9 PM, we stayed at one of the most beautiful hotels on the side of a mountain. It was like a scene out of a movie. We had hot water, marble floors in the bathroom, and the rooms were already warm! We were all so anxious to get off the bus and sleep comfortably, that none of us wanted to even eat dinner. All we wanted to do was bathe, talk, and sleep…which is what Reidi and I did. After long heart to heart talks with my girls Tara and Reidi, I slept the best I had slept since arriving in Bhutan. (Thanks Martha for being so understanding and “Keeping it real” with us) Waking up at the usual 7AM I was not a “happy camper.” The internet was not working, I did not want to get back on the bus, and “some people I know” took my seats on the bus, which made the continuation of the road trip even worse! I said goodbye to my long standing Yoga Queen and Roomy Iman who was sick, but now feeling better. I also said my final goodbye to Delaine, who is a mother of (2), who is missing her daughter’s senior graduation to educate students in Bhutan! I am still sending you gifts and love from Kanglung in May Delaine if you are reading this!   Bumthang Bound to drop off Tara, Martin, and Sabrina…estimated time of arrival 3PM, which meant 4 -5 more hours!

Bumthang Welcome sign

Princess quarters

On our way to Bumthang we saw monkeys, beautiful Pine forest, and a strong welcome sign as we entered Bumthang. It said something along the lines of,” Welcome to Bumthang, wrap it up, aids and HIV is nothing to mess around with.” It was a sight to see as we journeyed into the beautiful evergreen forest. The roads were paved and architecture of the homes was beautiful! Finally, we came to clearing and witnessed a middle secondary school where our colleague Sabrina would be posted. We met her principal, he offered us tea and refreshments, and then we began the big move. If you know Sabrina, or have read her blogs, she is a PRINCESS to say the least. Being that we were all a group, we all had to help unpack everyone’s items and help them move in. She had a beautiful home in front of a little river. One would have to walk across a suspension bridge to get directly there. It was pretty stable, but to move all of her items, while she videotaped was another story. We had lines of BCFers and townspeople helping, carrying, and cooperating…while she was videotaping and laughing. I am sure if I saw that video today I would look like an angry slave girl. However, like my favorite motto from Shelly Lopez,” Teamwork is dream work”, we were able to get the job done in record timing. I would eventually miss that Princess Sabrina and I am sure she’s reading this blog and laughing.

Saying goodbye in fashion (Martin & Tara)

  About an hour into Bumthang we would drop off Martin and Tara two of my “faves.” We were anticipating the beauty of their home and we were right.  Many bedrooms, wood burning stove, and wood floors. (Unlike my concrete floor) After playing a first day of school activity that Martin was so eager to teach us (he is perfect in that sense, always wanting to share ideas and resources) it was time to depart and stay in our hotel in Bumthang. A family owned hotel where each room had a wood burning stove and a hot shower, we were easily satisfied. I slept horribly that night and even after my dad’s many lessons of using a wood burning stove, the fire kept going out! I woke up freezing and my roomy Reidi woke up sick. We had to officially say goodbye to Martin and Tara that morning because even though they joined us for breakfast, that would be the last time I would see them until our July Summer break. I cried my eyes out on the bus that day, like I had just left my family at the airport! They were two amazing people that I still consistently keep in touch with throughout this journey. To say the least I was upset to leave some of the greatest Canadians who accepted me for the crazy brown girl that I am.

This is for you Reidi

After, a longer ride and a change in vegetation we drove into tropics of Bhutan and came upon a small village called Lhuntse. Before reaching Lhuntse I must tell you about the flat tire incident.  This is where I would drop off my closest companion here Reidi. I still remember pulling up to her castle-like school and meeting her principal like it was yesterday. I think about out last night in the only hotel in her small village, how she almost electrocuted herself using the heat immersion for the first time. I had to warn her not to stick her hand in the water to “test” its warmth. The night and day went very fast and saying goodbye to my P.I.C was more difficult than I had anticipated. I also said my first of (3) goodbyes to my friend Tim that day. He was slightly stressed realizing his rice cooker was left in Thimphu. Tim, if you are reading this, I use my rice cooker once a week…I’ll send you mine.

Beautiful Trashigang

After dropping them off it was a quiet ride on the bus including Martha, Simon, Becky, and I. Finally after a long 25 minutes the silence was broken with a stunning view of Eastern Bhutan. We were all anticipating arriving in Trashigang where we were all posted. Midway through our trip we stopped for lunch at a magical hilltop restaurant. I almost adopted the most adorable gray dog there. He immediately took a liking to me and he was the only “tame” dog in the bunch. Karma told me I could take him, but I didn’t know how I would take care of him teaching six days per week. Sadly, I said goodbye to the little dog and we continued to Mongar to greet our friend Sheal and help her unload her belongings. Funny thing about that “meet and greet” in Mongar, we had to tell our driver to turn around after we passed her posting. We noticed that we went right by her posting and asked the driver,”Are we supposed to meet at Sheal’s home?” He then phoned Karma and we had to back track 20 minutes to Sheal’s posting to help her move in and say our final goodbyes! It was quite hilarious, but if you know Bhutan like I do…nothing is planned and anything and everything can change in minutes. I am finally getting used to that.

Arriving in Trashigang was a beautiful sight to see. We had to show our work permits at this entry way and it all became very clear. After 4 long days you Ashley, you have arrived at your posting. However, things changed again much to my dismay. We arrived in Trashigang to a hotel that was not expecting us, to a staff that spoke little English, to unload all of our items in a hotel lobby, and say a surprise goodbye to Simon all in a matter of hours. Simon is one guy that reminds me of home. He can take my humor for what is worth without defense. Not only that, he can dish it back just as harshly. Needless to say it was hard to say goodbye to my new Aussie friend. Quick hugs and all that was left were 3 ladies. Martha HAM, Becky, and I were left in hotel in a foreign place waiting for the arrival of Karma.

            He arrived and took us out for the “last dinner” as he called it. It was filled with cheesy potatoes, spinach, rice, and normal Bhutanese food. We also were able to purchase bread here in Trashigang. It was like a treat. FRESH BREAD! I sure miss the small things in life and “no” it was not sliced my friends. That night Karma informed me that I could finally sleep in and he would drop off Becky and Martha at their postings while I stayed in Trashigang by myself. I was slightly apprehensive about being in a foreign place alone, but that’s what I came here for so I agreed.
               I woke up and the hotel staff had made us a breakfast of greasy tortilla cakes with honey, potatoes, and honey. I had none of this, but was up to send off my colleagues. I said my goodbye and missing them both as they left me in this huge busy foreign place that I would soon call home away from home.

A little messy,but this is my 1of 3 rooms

I set out for a walk after packing all my many belongings. I walked to the markets and received so many stares that no one would believe. After 25 minutes of this, I returned back to the hotel. The staff personnel were my age so I began to make conversation with them. They were so welcoming and wanted to know all about my life in America. I showed them many photos and we exchanged numbers. They informed that I “always” had a place to stay when I visited Trashigang. (This location is an hr away from my posting) Karma finally came to pick me up at 4PM that day and I was the last one in the group to be dropped off at their posting. After an hour drive up the curvy mountain roads I came to clearing and saw a younger man with a 7 yr. old son standing on the side of the road waving. It was my principal!! I finally made it!! After many sad goodbyes, hotels, and memories…I had made it to Kanglung. I still can’t believe I’m here, but I am happy. Kanglung, I think you were my destiny and I hope we have great things in store for each other over the next 10 months.

As for my colleagues and New Bhutan family …I hope you are all taking this experience one day at a time. I know the road is rocky and we may all stumble time to time, but we were all chosen for a reason. I hope that we can all make the most out of this adventure and be able to look back satisfied, proud, and amazed because from my experiences living in Bhutan it is not an easy task. Tashi Delek, my fellow family and I can’t wait to see you in July in BUMTHANG. Much love!