Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Tsechu?? Yes, in Youngphula.


Kezang's family

After many hours and days working on the school newspaper, Teacher's Day, and all my "markings" ( grading papers) I was ready for a nice little break. Little did I know I would get it by spending more time with my students over my small 5 day break. I was asked by one of my favorite students and newspaper photographer to come with him and his family to Tsechu in Youngphula. Now, I must be honest that I have only read about this event and it was from the government mandated text, so I had no idea what to expect. However, if you know me or know anything about me I accepted the offer as soon as it was given. What was to lose and I NEEDED the    
break away from work. "Madam, I will come and get you at 9AM",
Kezang, who invited me to Tsechu with his family



"over sized" Kira

Kezang said. However, that morning I received a knock on my door at 7AM, making sure I was awake and a notice that we were leaving at 8:45AM from Kezang. "Ok", I said. half asleep. (One of the first Saturdays I was able to sleep past 9AM). I rushed around thinking should I pack a lunch, should I bring money for offerings, a Raichu or no Raichu, and many more random thoughts flowing through my head. However, by 8:30 AM I was walking up to Kezang's house without any expectations or any idea of how to act or what to even say. Dressed in my finest Kira there I was standing outside of house of people I had never met and only knowing the 12 year old who lived there. I knocked nervously and they greeted me with open arms and big smiles. I was asked to "take" breakfast, but I had already had an apple because my stomach was slightly unsettled. I walked into their tradiotinal Bhutanese home and met his mother and father for the first time. They still are some of the most generous people I have met here in Bhutan. They showed me around, offered me tea, and even made Kezang show me his sister's photos of her graduation. After about 30 minutes of broken English conversations, Kezang's father told me that my Kira was too big and that I needed a "belt." I laughed it off nervously because my kira is "ready-made" meaning it was fit to size 3 months ago. ( I've lost weight as I have said before) Feeling more nervous they said it was time to go and they suggested I sit in the front seat of the truck. I agreed and if you know me I love "shot-gun." I sat in the truck waiting for everyone else to arrive with his grandmother who only knows Sharchop ( the local eastern Bhutan language) talking to her about my country, which she thought was Africa. I laughed it off, but only to realize that so many Bhutanese think I am from Africa because i'm brown skinned. ha! On the way I was able to talk with Kezang's father who talked about his job, America, and have other misc. conversations. He knows English so it was good to ask questions and he even stopped the truck a few times so I could capture the many beautiful sights on the way. When we arrived we he suggested I look around and he sent his neice who is 17 years old to help me translate and find my way around this event. Her name was Pema and she ended up being so much fun to be around. We shopped and she took me into places that I normally wouldn't have went to being too afraid. The day was by far one of the most memorable moments I have had here in Bhutan. The masked dances, the people, the food, and Kezang's family were more that I could have expected. Days like these in Bhutan make me feel so blessed and privileged to be here. I couldn't have been more happier laying my head down at the end of the day and I am sure I fell asleep with  a smile on my face. Thank you Bhutan for once again opening my eyes to something wonderful.

Tsechu in Youngphula: Masked dances

Warding off fear or death and sins...follow along closely friends.
It's beautiful


Teacher's Day in Bhutan...host? Yours truly.


From my class 6  students for Teacher's Day in Bhutan
After many deliberations and plenty of silence from all 22 of my colleagues, I volunteered to host Teacher's Day at Kanglung Primary School. Yes, I have only been here for 4 1/2 months and I had no idea what I was doing...I was up for the challenge. Teacher's Day celebrated on May 2, which coincides with the birth anniversary of the third Druk Gyalpo, is observed as Teacher’s Day in Bhutan. It is a day when students pay their tribute to teachers. I had no idea the magnitude of what I was getting into until I had groups of students begging me perform songs, recite speeches, and even perform dances as well. I had a whole itinerary set up for the event and let me say as they say in Bhutan,"Nothing ever goes as planned." So there I was 5 holidays due to Youngpfula Tscheu and no one to answer my many questions about what to plan, what to include, and how the day should go. I was on my own and panicking to say the least. Thank goodness for my colleagues Rika Tanteno and Sir Phutsho who I think I have mentioned before. Rika, the JICA volunteer had included many events through her Japanese club and Sir Phuntsho had decided to be the decorator and artist for the event. They both helped me out to make this Teacher's day at KPS a huge success. They say hard work pays off and by the end of the day, I couldn't have been more satisfied with the outcome. Although, I missed 5 amazing vacation days and a trip west, I have no regrets...what a memory and a day I will never forget.


My Best here in Kanglung, the JICA volunteer Rika Tanteno receiving her scarf

Dancing Bhutanese style

One amazingly humorous co-worker and the person who contributed the most in helping me during Teacher's Day

The host of Teacher's Day at KPS

Scarves of well wishes and a happy life given to the teachers.

Traditional dances Bhutanese Style...not rehearsed.

One of the many dances performed for the teaching staff



My principal serenading KPS




Sunday, April 29, 2012

Living Bhutanese...88 days down and 87 of them have been an adventure!


1/2 of my students in class 6B
           I have been here for 88 days and as many trials and tribulations I have encountered I am thinking about staying for another entire year because of my students. I will begin with how life has been here and I will call each portion by a certain aspect of living. These will include the teaching, living, and the eating.

  The teaching: Students equal consistent love, I couldn't ask for more motivated and energetic students my first year of teaching. My students are what get me up in the morning and the constant "bows" of "Good Morning Madam" will never get old. I think when I return to the United States I am going to expect the same from my western students. The respect they have for me is something that I never thought I would receive from ANY students. I have over 150 students between two grades and 88 days later I have FINALLY learned each name and I feel so connected to them that I prefer spending my free time with them! Majority of them have visited my home and have invited me to their Khuru Tournaments and its amazing that I spend 6 days a week with them and they still want to spend their only "free" day away from school with ME! I feel privileged to spend time with them and their families; they have truly made me feel so comfortable in this place that I now call home. Each morning we have the traditional Bhutanese Morning Prayer in my School (Kanglung Pry School) and this month was my student's turn to recite speeches. They are required to have (1) boy and (1) girl recite a speech either in the national language Dzongkha or English. This is a big deal in my school and each morning my students arrive early to make sure that I hear their speech first (even if it is in Dzongkha, which I cannot yet understand very well) and English... I help them with their 
English storytelling competition
grammatical errors or just plain public speaking aspects. They are doing quite well and not in a biased view we have the best class speeches thus far! I am also administering a weekly spelling test to each class. This includes my 5A, 5B, 6A, and my 6B classes. I usually try to assign 10 -12 words per week using the words found in our text and words that might be applicable from the dictionary. Recently, the students have asked for MORE words and even though some of them do not score as well as expected, they LOVE the challenge and being tested on things they enjoy. I am also the Literary in Charge. This means that I incorporate English competitions between houses. I know, what are houses?? HA! In my school at the beginning of the year the all the students are assigned to a certain group. These groups include Singye, Druk, Chung (my house- (4) teachers to each house), and Taag. The students then work together throughout the duration of the year in landscaping the campus, house competitions, morning work, and many other aspects of student life. These houses have captains that are in charge of making sure the students are doing their work and practicing for the upcoming competitions (usually a class 6 student.) We have had (4) competitions in my school (2) of which were English Competitions. I had no idea how this process worked and I happened to be in charge of the first competition of the YEAR!! hahah...I was nervous for the first time in Bhutan! Needless to say I survived and the competition went better than expected! It was an English storytelling competition... so this entitled the students to read a story judged on intonation, pronunciation, confidence ,expression ,and fluency. Yes, it may sound simple because the stories are quite short, but as an ELL student this is quite the challenge especially in front of the student body and the entire faculty. They did very well and my vice principal said that this competition was better than perfect! I was soo relieved and it made me feel much more confident for my next competition. Did I happen to mention that I am also continuing the Kanglung Pry School Observer?!?
Newspaper staff at KPS
This is a newspaper that was started by another fellow BCFer the prior year that was a huge success. I felt almost obligated to do it (considering I teach 36 hours per week) ,but I knew it meant a lot to my school, so I agreed. I have 20 students on my newspaper staff and only (1) has worked with a camera, computer, and has written an article! Yes, I have my hands full. I started from "square one" teaching them how to interview and we studied other newspapers like the Kuensel offered in Bhutan. My students, classes 4-6 have just finished our 1st issue after 2 months and I couldn't be more proud of them! Even though it took many  days of motivating and lots of work on my side...I am so proud of these students for pulling the whole newspaper together. I will say I could not have done it without my close friend Karma Tenzin , who is a student at the Sherubste College. He is head of the Media Society and produces a newspaper for the college called The Tower. He offered to help me format the newspaper, gave me ideas for articles, and even came to my class to motivate them on how far English writing can take them in this world. He has been more than a friend... I cannot thank him and his team for helping me on this project. They are a very prominent club in the college and they even travel to neighboring schools to show students how much of an impact Media can make on each of their lives! I traveled with them once and I was very impressed on the impact they were able to make on the students in such a little time and they even wrote a column on me in their college newspaper. Oh, did I also mention that I am also in charge of the Teacher's Day celebration? I know, again...what is Teacher's Day? It's actually a national holiday celebrating the impact teachers have on the students’ life. The students bring the teachers gifts, letters, and thank the teachers for all their hard work! I am very excited for this even though I am spending my holidays in my room planning for an event that I have never been 
Karma Tenzin (left) head of Media Society & (right) Kesang Om
to or heard of! I think this a great way to motivate teachers and remind them of how important we are to the the students' lives. I said earlier that my students are the reason I get up in the morning, well take note fellow colleagues WE are part of the reason the students come to class! However, the event is in (2) days and I have a whole schedule lined up for this program...I think my principal thinks I am going "overboard", but why shouldn't we celebrate educators in a big way? America: take note!! A busy life makes time fly and I feel quite productive so I am also incorporating a school wide Art Project celebrating 100 years if Education in Bhutan...yes I said 100, only 100 years!!! This project was funded by VAST, an art company from the country’s capital in Thimphu. I wrote them a letter of proposal explaining my plan (an artistic timeline made of pictures ranging from 1912- 2035.) They immediately wrote back and agreed. They recently sent over 10,000 Nu of art supplies to my school to incorporate this project. They included NEW paints, paper, chalk, paint brushes, crayons, markers, and much more! My school is now working on this timeline explaining through art how education has evolved in this country! Each picture depicts a milestone in education that Bhutan has reached. I am very excited and I hope my vision becomes a reality. My class students have the best ideas for how education will be in 2035 and I can’t believe their imaginative spirits! I have said this before and I will say it again,” Bhutan: your students and people have changed my life forever.” 
Dorden my landlord's son
            The “living” has changed my life forever as well. I am currently living in what I consider the “heart of Kanglung.” I live in the Upper Market ,there is the Lower Market as well. This means I live a few “blocks” up from another section of this village. I live in a small apartment above the Snooker hall and the Cheda shop. The Snooker hall means billiards in America and the Cheda Shop is one of the most popular shops in Kanglung. They sell everything from Nike shoes, cups, plates, laundry soap, shoes, buckets, toilet paper, carpet, and anything else you could imagine! They are also my landlords. They have the most adorable son named Dorden, who I am currently attempting to teach English. He is only 2 years old, but I must call him the “Golden Child” because he is just that cute. He brings a smile to face daily and I can’t imagine living here without him screaming my name across the street every day. My living quarters may possibly the most of my worries here.  Although I have successfully adapted to the living here I must say that, the quarters are something that stress me out. The construction of buildings here is quite different from an American home. They are usually constructed either with complete concrete and a flat  wooden sheet roof, and then a triangular tin roof or the traditional home made of wood, mud, and manmade bricks (this process is mind blowing). However, the roof is not really attached so the BAZILLION pigeons that live here have a great place to nest; right above me. Consequently, my roof leaks every time it rains (which is quite a lot) and the pigeon droppings so carefully run down the sides of my walls and into my room! I know this can be very dangerous and to me Pigeons are like living with rats that have wings. 
Where my "pet" pigeons safely fly "home"
I wasn’t too concerned until recently I became ill. I was sick with strep throat, fever, cough, cold, and vomiting for 3 and ½ weeks!! I took medicine from America, Japan, India and finally after missing (2) days of classes I knew I had to go see a Dr. I went to Youngfula (an Indian hospital) for a checkup. They prescribed Pain Meds (the strength of Tylenol and administered for EVERTHING) and antibiotics. The second week of sickness I went to visit this hospital I had already been on antibiotics for a week and with their prescription this would be week (2.) I took them and began to feel a little better, until after 3 days of being off medication I was sick again!! I went back to the hospital to see the same Dr. and he gave a referral to see another Dr. at Trashigang and another at Mongar. These are some of the largest hospitals in this country and from my knowledge they only have (3) major hospitals throughout this country! I have been to 2 out of the 3 as of today! Anyways,
prescribed medicine from Bhutan
I went to his Dr. they gave me a blood test and to my surprise it came back ABNORMAL! My white blood cell count was much too low and my SED rate which is supposed to be 1-15 is currently at a 37!! This Dr. at Trashigang had no answers for me, but once again prescribed me more antibiotics and pain meds. I eventually had to make my way to Mongar even though I was feeling much better; I had to know why my blood test was coming back abnormal. Mongar is a 3 hour drive from where I am, on unfinished, rugged, and narrow road. Boy, I never thought getting proper medical treatment would be such a hassle! It was!! I had said before that it rains everyday here in Kanglung and it’s not even Monsoon season yet!! Well, being that these are unfinished roads, due to the Indian laborers that are supposed to be widening the roads, but the work is not done making the wet roads terrible and dangerous to travel on! My Vice principal took me on the most epic road trip that I will never forget! This was a 3 hour drive that ended up being 5 ½ hours because of the landslides and treacherous road conditions! When I say treacherous I mean boulders that have fallen, roads washing away with no guard rails, and only one bulldozer to clear the debris! I have never been so scared in my life…here I was risking my life, to get to the hospital to “save” my life. The 30+ cars and trucks lined up trying to make it way west on the only road offering this direction was a sight to see. This is most definitely one of the most regrettable times I didn’t have my camera! We finally made it only to forcefully stay in a hotel. I paid 550 Nu for a one nights stay at the Druk Hotel, which ended up to be quite the adventure as well. I ended up staying at the same hotel as the curriculum specialist, Mr. Wangchuk Rabten. He is a very passionate man about education and very frank when it comes to any one who wants to discuss education in Bhutan. We spoke over dinner and talked about the differences of American Education and Bhutanese Education and possible improvements in the upcoming year. The next day was my Dr.’s appointment so I woke early enough to explore the town while I was here. WHAT A SIGHT TO SEE, much different form my “home in Kanglung.” First, the stares I received!! I am African American so I stood out like a “sore thumb.” Everyone was asking me where I came from and why I there. It was either because that is protocol for a foreigner OR because that was the only English they knew. I answered their enquiring questions and went on my way (looking for a Raichu,I may have misspelled this),
My ceremonial Raichu
 something you wear when you meet prestige religious figures. I ended up finding the ADO, instead! He took me to find Apples and fruit instead and there was no sign of what I was looking for! After, hours of shop browsing it was time for my appointment! Arriving at the hospital was another story. I was scheduled to see the ENT and then have another blood test. The ENT was 30 minute late, so I decided to go get the test I was scheduled to do, but to my surprise the test I was supposed to get they had ran out of supplies to test for it! So, there I was 3 hours from home and not getting the treatment I was scheduled to get! I ended up having another blood tset. This was not successful, seeing as my blood still came back abnormal. I am currently waiting on my throat culture test results and in 2 weeks I will go for another blood test. I received no answers from the Dr’s at Mongar hospital; I was just given more medicine! I am feeling much better, but I am still curious about what my body is fighting here; is the pigeon droppings in my lungs or am I just fighting the bazillion germs here? Still sitting uneasy until I receive answers and NOT just medicine! One great answer is that I found a new house to shift to after 4 months. In 3 weeks I will be proudly moving to home located on the Sherubtse campus! No more Pigeondroppings in my house!!
             On another happier note about living here I have met some of the most amazing people and friends. Two in particular are Sir Allan Smith and Madam Rika Tateno. Both are also foreign teachers that have helped me to adjust here and have been there for all my many ups and downs. Rika is a 28 year old JICA volunteer from Japan, who also works at KPS as a Physical Education Teacher. We connected immediately and she has helped to learn Sharchop, point out the best shops, and has introduced me to some of the most amazing people here. She has been here for 10 months and is well adjusted to living here. In fact, I am living in her old quarters, she suggest I move ASAP… haha! I spend every weekend with her and we are currently planning a trip to explore what Bhutan has to offer. I couldn’t ask for a better best friend here. Thank goodness I have someone I can relate to and fully understand what I am going through here! She also helped me with my first time hitchhiking! Yes, I said hitchhiking! Here in Bhutan it is called a “lift” and people are just accustomed to doing it. As she has taught me, all you have to do is put out two fingers, stand slightly in the road, and wave the driver down. It works! For a small fee you can get where you need to go and sometimes you may not have to pay for a lift. It’s much different than America you can trust the people here to get you where you need to go safely! I have thoroughly enjoyed the times we have spent together thus far and we both plan on making our time here worth the while together. Allan Smith, is a lecturer who teaches at the Sherubtse Collegealso head of the sociology department. He is like a second father here. When I have any problem or sickness he is there to help at any cost. He is from America and we have shared many stories and laughs about life here. He is someone I constantly “vent” to and is always there for a laugh, a dinner, and an ear. In addition,  there is another foreign teacher from California named Samir Patel. He has been here for 2 years and I met him through Rika. I consider him a very close guy friend. He is always there for an ear and not to mention he is one of the best chefs in Kanglung besides Rika. If he wanted to, he could open a restaurant in Kanglung. Carrot cake, pizza, garlic bread, and anything else you can imagine he can make it! He has an amazing “balcony” that overlooks the mountains that I utilize when I can. We also have about the same taste in music, so that aids in our friendship! Through them I have met many lecturers at the college who are my closest group of friends here. Rashme, Jamyang, Sonam 1, Sonam 2 and Poonam are all girls that I consider great people to be around here. We are all very busy with our work, but when we have a chance to meet, we ALWAYS have a great time together! Thank goodness for the people I have met here who help me to consider this small country my home. However, I can’t leave out my co-workers. They are great people as well. Baby showers ( here they celebrate AFTER the baby is born) , meetings, and our passion for education has all brought us quite close. Lastly, my neighbors and surrounding friends inviting me to the many Pujas ( a way to celebrate, bless, or receive well wishes for all people) incorporated on any given day with food, family, friends, and alcohol. Pujas may happen every day if they wanted. I think I may do this when I return for an excuse to get together with family and friends!

                The eating:  One of the most important traditions in Bhutanese culture is the eating portion. It applies to any occasion, at any given time. I must first comment on the use of chilies in every meal given to me. I could not take the chilies when I first arrived in Thimphu, my eyes, nose, and mouth all continuously watering. Everything in my body telling me chilies are not good for you! Then, after 1 month and 1 week in Bhutan, I PREFER very little chilies in my meals. I have even begun purchasing them at the stores to add to my recipes that I have brought from America. In addition to the chilies, one cannot forget to mention the rice. Red rice or white rice either is served at each meal of the day. I love rice, but in very small doses. There is very little nutritional value and trying to stay as healthy as possible in Bhutan, I would prefer to steer away from so much rice and firmly stay with the many fresh vegetables the stores offer. I have already lost over 20 lbs!! I have been blessed to have so many wonderful people cook for me and the restaurants here are just fantastic. The Shonzy being one of my first favorites and the second being the college favorite Keungor restaurant have both aided me in having meals on days in which I was too busy to prepare. I have learned three Bhutanese recipes and I plan on learning many more as my days continue in this beautiful place.


Saturday, February 18, 2012

Eastbound...estimated time of arrival- 5 days!



 Before I even begin writing this blog, I want to inform all my fellow Bhutan Canada Foundation colleagues that this blog is for you. Those who shared (5) long days on a small Tashitse school bus will be able to relate and reminisce while reading this blog. I had no idea that a road trip across Bhutan would turn into some of the fondest memories that I have made.  I will never forget the most uncomfortable, hilarious, gorgeous, cramped, sing-along filled bus ride that I ever had to endure.

It all began on February 4th around 7AM in the morning. As you recall form my last blog…all our bags were packed and we were heading East, to each members postings for our final “Shu lay log ja gays” which is “See you later” in Dzongkha.  All teachers except for Davey, Sarah, and Noorin would accompany me on this scenic ride through Bhutan. However, luckily they were able to go along with us on our last tourist event to Dochula .  Arriving at this monument was the most magnificent sight. I couldn’t believe that this beautiful place was not even 10 years old. This was not only beautiful, but it was at 11,000 feet above sea level. As I began walking up the steps I started to feel extremely light-headed. I thought nothing of it and followed suite to remove my shoes and enter this fortress of blessing and memory. The Director of Institute at Dochula met us and began to explain the significance of every piece of artwork that showed the history of Bhutan. I began listening to the story of how this unique place  was founded; in 2003 by the Queen Mother in tribute and appreciation of a successful military coup in which Bhutan drove threatening insurgents outside its borders; her Husband and Son both fought in this battle and returned unharmed, thankfully. As I was concentrating on the history of Bhutan I suddenly had to focus on not passing out. A feeling that I had never felt before in my entire life, ALTITUDE SICKINESS!!  It was overpowering and before I fainted right in front of the Director, I kindly excused myself to Nancy (Executive BCF founder) and informed her of what I was feeling. She immediately pulled me outside and told me to sit, breathe, eat sugar candy, and drink plenty of water. I couldn’t believe this!! Here I am, invited to the most unbelievable place and I am outside about to pass out. My head was spinning a mile a minute and every time I thought the feeling had passed, it would come back to haunt me! I sat at the top of this beautiful monument feeling miserable. I mainly felt this way because I was missing out on the final group experience and I was unable to control this feeling of altitude sickness. Karma eventually took me down the long flight of stairs and the Director of Institute offered me tea and crackers. About 30 minutes later the altitude sickness finally went away.
 I was able to walk around the Druk Wangyal Chortens and have a personal conversation with the Monk about the 2003 conflicts in Bhutan. I was most grateful he took the time to ask how I was feeling, as well inform me on why all of this was built. After finally adjusting to the altitude, a stronger emotion took over when I had to say goodbye to (3) of my fellow BCFers. Noorin, Simon, and Sarah would not accompany us any further because they were all heading to the southern area of Bhutan, instead of East like the rest of us. It did bring a few tears, but excitement as well. I knew that the 5 day road trip was finally making headway deep into the heart of Bhutan.   

To say the bus over packed and uncomfortable would be an understatement. Martha, in the front seat next to our exceptional bus driver, Tim behind her, then a stretch of seats that included Simon, Sheal, and Sabrina, behind them Martin and Tara, and last seats included Becky and I. As luck would have it, I had the back (2) seats all to myself after Davey departed us.  The bus was a little quiet, but it was Martin and Tara that continuously kept my spirits high. After 30 minutes of silence and sight-seeing, it was music (karaoke) that helped this road trip move along. Before, I get to my sing- alongs, I must mention the roads, construction, death dropping heights, and beautiful sceneries I was able to witness on this road trip.

First, I must mention the roads. If you have ever watched Deadliest Roads, you may get a small idea of what I witnessed firsthand. Bhutan is an underdeveloped country as many of you may know and that means almost everything including the roads are under construction.  This does not mean in America where the roads are nicely paved and only one lane is open, this means they are tearing into the mountain to make this dirt road wider.  This was the craziest event I had ever seen. We were on the side of a mountain, packed in a school bus driving through dirt roads. When I say construction that also means that traffic is at a standstill. It’s no highway 64 heading into St. Louis, it is people of all walks of life getting out of their cars to stretch, eat, talk, and even walk up to see the construction workers doing their job. The people were so calm; enjoying the lush vegetation on the mountainside, chatting, and some even going to the bathroom on the side of this mountain.  I couldn’t believe my eyes! Everyone had some place to go and a specific time to be there, but no one seemed irritated or distressed that this road would not open for another 30 minutes. My colleagues and I took a leisurely stroll and by the time we heading back to our bus, the traffic was ready to move. The road would be open for 30 minutes and those who didn’t make it through would have to wait for a longer period of time. Did I mention my love for guard railing on roads now? There are few passes and sections where there is any protection from falling straight down into the depths of these valleys. Just having a window seat makes your heart flutter thinking of these insane drop-offs where you could plummet to your death at any moment. Oh yes, how could I forget the horn honking?! As I witnessed, it is protocol to honk your horn if you are going around a sharp curve. Yes, that means “HONK, HONK” I am coming so you better pull over and allow me to pass. It was such an experience to watch our bus driver maneuver this bus on these narrow roads. These huge trucks from India would “challenge” the road with us and Tara and I would make the western movie showdown music, without the Tumble weeds of course. It was like unknown rules of the road. Without even speaking the drivers would reverse, pull over, and allow the other vehicle through. I couldn’t believe it. Drivers were so considerate on these narrow, unpaved, and dusty roads. Thank goodness for our well accustomed bus driver who made sure we all arrived safely to our postings.
Flat tire

Lastly, the sights, the flat tire, and the many places we stayed. The first night after arriving in Trongsa around 9 PM, we stayed at one of the most beautiful hotels on the side of a mountain. It was like a scene out of a movie. We had hot water, marble floors in the bathroom, and the rooms were already warm! We were all so anxious to get off the bus and sleep comfortably, that none of us wanted to even eat dinner. All we wanted to do was bathe, talk, and sleep…which is what Reidi and I did. After long heart to heart talks with my girls Tara and Reidi, I slept the best I had slept since arriving in Bhutan. (Thanks Martha for being so understanding and “Keeping it real” with us) Waking up at the usual 7AM I was not a “happy camper.” The internet was not working, I did not want to get back on the bus, and “some people I know” took my seats on the bus, which made the continuation of the road trip even worse! I said goodbye to my long standing Yoga Queen and Roomy Iman who was sick, but now feeling better. I also said my final goodbye to Delaine, who is a mother of (2), who is missing her daughter’s senior graduation to educate students in Bhutan! I am still sending you gifts and love from Kanglung in May Delaine if you are reading this!   Bumthang Bound to drop off Tara, Martin, and Sabrina…estimated time of arrival 3PM, which meant 4 -5 more hours!

Bumthang Welcome sign
Princess quarters
On our way to Bumthang we saw monkeys, beautiful Pine forest, and a strong welcome sign as we entered Bumthang. It said something along the lines of,” Welcome to Bumthang, wrap it up, aids and HIV is nothing to mess around with.” It was a sight to see as we journeyed into the beautiful evergreen forest. The roads were paved and architecture of the homes was beautiful! Finally, we came to clearing and witnessed a middle secondary school where our colleague Sabrina would be posted. We met her principal, he offered us tea and refreshments, and then we began the big move. If you know Sabrina, or have read her blogs, she is a PRINCESS to say the least. Being that we were all a group, we all had to help unpack everyone’s items and help them move in. She had a beautiful home in front of a little river. One would have to walk across a suspension bridge to get directly there. It was pretty stable, but to move all of her items, while she videotaped was another story. We had lines of BCFers and townspeople helping, carrying, and cooperating…while she was videotaping and laughing. I am sure if I saw that video today I would look like an angry slave girl. However, like my favorite motto from Shelly Lopez,” Teamwork is dream work”, we were able to get the job done in record timing. I would eventually miss that Princess Sabrina and I am sure she’s reading this blog and laughing.


Saying goodbye in fashion (Martin & Tara)
  About an hour into Bumthang we would drop off Martin and Tara two of my “faves.” We were anticipating the beauty of their home and we were right.  Many bedrooms, wood burning stove, and wood floors. (Unlike my concrete floor) After playing a first day of school activity that Martin was so eager to teach us (he is perfect in that sense, always wanting to share ideas and resources) it was time to depart and stay in our hotel in Bumthang. A family owned hotel where each room had a wood burning stove and a hot shower, we were easily satisfied. I slept horribly that night and even after my dad’s many lessons of using a wood burning stove, the fire kept going out! I woke up freezing and my roomy Reidi woke up sick. We had to officially say goodbye to Martin and Tara that morning because even though they joined us for breakfast, that would be the last time I would see them until our July Summer break. I cried my eyes out on the bus that day, like I had just left my family at the airport! They were two amazing people that I still consistently keep in touch with throughout this journey. To say the least I was upset to leave some of the greatest Canadians who accepted me for the crazy brown girl that I am.

This is for you Reidi
After, a longer ride and a change in vegetation we drove into tropics of Bhutan and came upon a small village called Lhuntse. Before reaching Lhuntse I must tell you about the flat tire incident.  This is where I would drop off my closest companion here Reidi. I still remember pulling up to her castle-like school and meeting her principal like it was yesterday. I think about out last night in the only hotel in her small village, how she almost electrocuted herself using the heat immersion for the first time. I had to warn her not to stick her hand in the water to “test” its warmth. The night and day went very fast and saying goodbye to my P.I.C was more difficult than I had anticipated. I also said my first of (3) goodbyes to my friend Tim that day. He was slightly stressed realizing his rice cooker was left in Thimphu. Tim, if you are reading this, I use my rice cooker once a week…I’ll send you mine.



Beautiful Trashigang
After dropping them off it was a quiet ride on the bus including Martha, Simon, Becky, and I. Finally after a long 25 minutes the silence was broken with a stunning view of Eastern Bhutan. We were all anticipating arriving in Trashigang where we were all posted. Midway through our trip we stopped for lunch at a magical hilltop restaurant. I almost adopted the most adorable gray dog there. He immediately took a liking to me and he was the only “tame” dog in the bunch. Karma told me I could take him, but I didn’t know how I would take care of him teaching six days per week. Sadly, I said goodbye to the little dog and we continued to Mongar to greet our friend Sheal and help her unload her belongings. Funny thing about that “meet and greet” in Mongar, we had to tell our driver to turn around after we passed her posting. We noticed that we went right by her posting and asked the driver,”Are we supposed to meet at Sheal’s home?” He then phoned Karma and we had to back track 20 minutes to Sheal’s posting to help her move in and say our final goodbyes! It was quite hilarious, but if you know Bhutan like I do…nothing is planned and anything and everything can change in minutes. I am finally getting used to that.

Arriving in Trashigang was a beautiful sight to see. We had to show our work permits at this entry way and it all became very clear. After 4 long days you Ashley, you have arrived at your posting. However, things changed again much to my dismay. We arrived in Trashigang to a hotel that was not expecting us, to a staff that spoke little English, to unload all of our items in a hotel lobby, and say a surprise goodbye to Simon all in a matter of hours. Simon is one guy that reminds me of home. He can take my humor for what is worth without defense. Not only that, he can dish it back just as harshly. Needless to say it was hard to say goodbye to my new Aussie friend. Quick hugs and all that was left were 3 ladies. Martha HAM, Becky, and I were left in hotel in a foreign place waiting for the arrival of Karma.
            He arrived and took us out for the “last dinner” as he called it. It was filled with cheesy potatoes, spinach, rice, and normal Bhutanese food. We also were able to purchase bread here in Trashigang. It was like a treat. FRESH BREAD! I sure miss the small things in life and “no” it was not sliced my friends. That night Karma informed me that I could finally sleep in and he would drop off Becky and Martha at their postings while I stayed in Trashigang by myself. I was slightly apprehensive about being in a foreign place alone, but that’s what I came here for so I agreed.
               I woke up and the hotel staff had made us a breakfast of greasy tortilla cakes with honey, potatoes, and honey. I had none of this, but was up to send off my colleagues. I said my goodbye and missing them both as they left me in this huge busy foreign place that I would soon call home away from home.

A little messy,but this is my 1of 3 rooms
I set out for a walk after packing all my many belongings. I walked to the markets and received so many stares that no one would believe. After 25 minutes of this, I returned back to the hotel. The staff personnel were my age so I began to make conversation with them. They were so welcoming and wanted to know all about my life in America. I showed them many photos and we exchanged numbers. They informed that I “always” had a place to stay when I visited Trashigang. (This location is an hr away from my posting) Karma finally came to pick me up at 4PM that day and I was the last one in the group to be dropped off at their posting. After an hour drive up the curvy mountain roads I came to clearing and saw a younger man with a 7 yr. old son standing on the side of the road waving. It was my principal!! I finally made it!! After many sad goodbyes, hotels, and memories…I had made it to Kanglung. I still can’t believe I’m here, but I am happy. Kanglung, I think you were my destiny and I hope we have great things in store for each other over the next 10 months.
As for my colleagues and New Bhutan family …I hope you are all taking this experience one day at a time. I know the road is rocky and we may all stumble time to time, but we were all chosen for a reason. I hope that we can all make the most out of this adventure and be able to look back satisfied, proud, and amazed because from my experiences living in Bhutan it is not an easy task. Tashi Delek, my fellow family and I can’t wait to see you in July in BUMTHANG. Much love!

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Life in Thimphu..."Thimphu Cute"


The next days were filled with orientation meetings and tourist trips. I was overwhelmed with how fast the days were going considering I was in an unknown place with people I barely knew at the time.
            As we visited offices like the Ministry of Education, I began to really get a feel for this amazing country and its incredible people that inhabited it. As I mentioned earlier, I had met the Minister of Education, but neglected to mention the Secretary, a woman named Aum Sangay Zam . She was one of the first personnel who I truly felt I could be myself around. I believe she appreciated it more as well. She was very open- minded and informed of us of her role in the Education sector. She also joined us for dinner right before we departed for our postings at the wonderful Dragon Roots hotel. She talked about the major difference that we are making and she was very encouraging in her words. I just think it’s remarkable that many of the Bhutanese people continue to thank us for coming and praising us for our efforts to improve the Bhutanese Education system. I mean, the more I communicate and become more acquainted with the natives, I am the one that is thankful for this opportunity. I have never in my life met so many open-minded, kind spirited people! In Buddhist nature, what they say is true, “See yourself in others; your happiness is based on the happiness of others.” I feel the way these individuals speak (with such passion) you feel that compassion with every word. She spoke of her sons that had traveled to the United States to attend Universities and how she herself felt no worries for her sons in such a foreign land. She was a great influence in that aspect. I would be worried about the negative influence America would have on my well brought up sons. HA! Propaganda of America can lead to devious nature in my opinion.

                I was also privileged enough to meet Lopen Lungten Jamtsho who plays a major role in the Language and National Cultural Institute in Bhutan. He spoke about the many aspects of Buddhism, enlightened me with many facts, and even supplied great quotes about what Buddhism really consist of. He talked about the past, present, and future Buddha’s, the (2) faces of Buddhism, and how to have control over your own mind. In his words,” Have control over your mind; do not be a servant of your own mind. Tame your mind and let it do what you want it to do.” His words were like a breath of fresh air. One always believes that they have control over their own mind and actions, but in Buddhist nature you have to LEARN to do so. Meditation and breathing exercises everyday for 5- 10 minutes cleanses all insecurities in the mind. I have been doing these exercises daily since I have been placed in Kanglung. I can honestly say that it has helped to clear and refresh each day before my mind is clouded with my many teaching duties.

                On top of meeting these influential people, we were privileged enough to partake in the many tourist activities in and around the capital of Thimphu! One such activity included our hike to Buddha Point. This was my first experience “trekking” into the hills of Bhutan.  The walk started very easy and our whole group was staying together like champs, but then one by one we all began separating. Three of our members had to result in staying at the hotel because of Bhutan Belly and many of our members had to walk at their own pace. This included me. While five of the thirteen that went on the hike trekked on in front of me, I continued on this trail alone. I was eventually accompanied by an old man and his grandson, who helped me to make it up steep short cuts to catch up to my group.  They would say, “Shortcut, Madam?” And if you know me, I don’t turn down any short cuts! They were very steep and even though I wanted to give up at times, like other members of the group…I made it up with the help of my fellow colleagues Tara and Martin. It was such an accomplishment and I felt so amazing after I accomplished the hike. We stayed in the ambience of this Buddha for about a ½ hour, because we had to meet Nancy Strickland for a spectacular feast at her home in Thimphu. After a half way stretch down the trails, I hitched a ride with Nema and Martha to Nancy’s humble residence.  We were greeted by architects and other influential people of Bhutan again! I couldn’t believe it! These people who basically develop, plan, and “run” this small country were taking time out of their busy schedules to meet with us! I began to think about if this was America, and foreign teachers came to teach (which they do all the time) NO ONE would receive this type of recognition. It just goes to show the type of people they are and how much they care about the well- being of their country! Also, I am sure they want to know who will be influencing their education system as well!

                I was also able to visit Taktsang  Goemba , which is the Tiger’s Nest Monastery in Paro, Bhutan. It was by far the most I have pushed myself and the most rewarding aspect of my Bhutan experience yet! (Besides meeting my students)  I was sore from the hike to Buddha point, but there was no way I was going to miss out of this beautiful once in a lifetime opportunity!  As I got off the bus and looked up at the mountain that seemed like hundreds of miles away….I thought there is no way I am going to make this! There were about 12 other tourist buses there with people all around us. Many of the individuals took a horse or donkey up the entire trek, but I decided I had to prove it to myself that I could do this. After 2 hours of strenuous, rocky, dirt road I had made it to the half way point. I was lucky enough to receive a call from home at the same time of our break. It was all my friends and family from back home and just hearing their voices motivated me even more to complete this journey. After a short break with Noorin and Delaine, we decided to take a horse the other half of the Trek and for only $8, I couldn’t turn it down! This was a little scary to say the least. We were riding straight up a mountain on horses that take this hike twice a day!  Reaching the top was never so sweet when you began to see others who were on their way down. We had made it finally! Only to have the monastery close for an hour! I almost burst into tears right then and there, but I looked around and I realized I MADE IT UP A MOUNTAIN!!! I was proud of myself either way and at least I was eye level with the Magnificent Tiger’s Nest!

During our last week of Thimphu fun, we were able to celebrate a colleague’s birthday, endure Dzongka lessons, and enjoy a very helpful cooking class with some of my favorite people here! All which were some of the most hilarious times I have spent here. For Simon’s birthday we decided to take up a collection of gifts from each person’s home country. Simon is from Australia and he said he had never spent his birthday in such a celebratory way. We presented him with a Diva Broche, an American flag, a Canadian pin, and many other stickers that were meant for our future students. He accepted all the gifts and thanked us graciously for making him feel so loved on his birthday! Looking “Thimphu cute” we spent the night out and about in downtown Thimphu. As we arrived, we see our logistics manager Karma there and we all enjoyed many laughs with him as well. To top off the night a Dave and Tara performed many songs in Simon’s honor on the main stage! It was so fun and we all sang along as our talented colleague Dave strummed up the most beautiful chords I had heard in a long time. It was great to hear some American favorites and hear our whole group singing along together. Tara and Dave both have such amazing voices that it made the night even better. America, Canada, the UK, and Australia took over that club that night and will never forget the many laughs we all shared together under the Bhutan moon.

 Dzongka lessons were a bit different to say the least.  Our instructor was not a teacher at all, but tried his best to help us with this language. In a group of 6 of us, and everyone knows it’s hard to “Teach teachers”, I felt bad for him. We were all asking too many questions, pronouncing things wrong, laughing at each other’s pronunciation efforts, and basically confusing him more than what he expected. I will not say that I did not learn any Dzongka from Sangay because I did, but I would suggest a lecturer for the future BCFers.

 The cooking classes were a much better success in my opinion. I was able to video tape the lesson on my flip camera and even today I use it as a reference to cook my many Bhutanese meals. Meena and the other women were very helpful in preparing the traditional foods that we have all grown to love so much. They even suggested the best places for us to purchase the spices, vegetables, and other needed ingredients. That night we shared a family style meal that we all contributed in making and to top it off they surprised Simon with a homemade chocolate cake with candles to celebrate his birthday! It was a great night, with great people.

The last 2 days in Thimphu flew by. With shopping, last minute errands, and money exchanges to be made, the departure date crept in before we knew it! After spending two weeks with these remarkable people I was very sad to leave the great group that easily became my Bhutan family. We would all depart together, but some of us were heading south so we would not get a chance to say final goodbye at our postings. We piled our many belongings in the lobby of the Dragon Roots hotel and we stared in wonderment of how all of these items were going to fit in our bus and in one truck. Thanks to Karma’s logistic sense everything fit and it was a sight to see! Eight refrigerators, twelve stoves, countless buckets (big and small), 12 rice cookers, 15 + rugs, and other items stuffed strategically in the two vehicles. It was a bittersweet goodbye to the ever so helpful staff and hotel manager,too. We piled into our school bus and waved goodbye the busy town of Thimphu. With Trongsa in our sights and soon to come Bumthang …I began to realize my journey was just starting. Kanglung I will see you in all your beauty in a short 5 days.

Thursday, February 9, 2012

This could be paradise... ( more to come shortly) - Lack of sleep and internet. Inconvience regretted.


I haven't written in a couple days and I feel terrible. Also, I want to add that many of my counterparts may have a different approach on blogging, but this is how I plan to do mine. I want everyone who follows my blog to understand that I will be writing what I am doing as well expressing my feelings. This may not be the most intellectual blog, but I want to share this experience with anyone who takes the time to read it. With that being said… There is so much I need to say and so much I want to share with you all. First, Landing into Paro, January 23rd, with the Himalayas in plain view gave me the most amazing feelings. I had tears rolling down my face and I couldn't stop them, it was a feeling of” I can't believe after 18 hours of flight” and I AM BLESSED to be here and see this magnificent sight. As I walked into the airport it all came rushing over me. I am finally here after months of talking about it and enduring many avenues of fundraising. As I walked through customs I was greeted by the two people that I would be spending most of time with before my posting in Kanglung Primary School.  Meena and Karma, who are the individuals who I now look up to as mentors and Bhutanese Professional Logistics managers.  The two of them would eventually deliver me  to posting in a few weeks after orientation. Possibly some of the understanding individuals I have had the pleasure to meet thus far. We took a 20 minute drive to our first hotel in Paro, which is about an hour drive from the capital, Thimphu. As we drove through this first town I don't think I blinked once. I didn’t want to miss anything. My first impression of Paro, Bhutan was a very mixed view. In a country that prides themselves on preserving the land and its greenery, there was garbage everywhere. The streams were dirty and filled with old trash. The children were running around some in traditional dress and MANY in American Hipster dress. The landscape was unbelievable though. The mountains surrounding you like nothing I can compare it to. As we drove on the narrowest road I had ever been on, my colleagues and I continued to talk about the unexpected adventures and how blessed we all were to be here. Arriving at our hotel the staff was more than welcoming. There were female girls around the age of 15 or 16. They were very timid, but very helpful. I settled in with a girl named Iman, who is a yoga queen. Little did I know that we would be rooming together for the next 15 days (by choice) we compliment each other very well and she is someone I can truly relate to. The first night I was truly missing my life back home. Getting used to not drinking the water, the most spicy and delicious food, and being with people that were strangers at the moment. I cried a lot that night, probably because of jet leg. However, looking back on that moment I want to laugh at myself because now I feel so very grateful to be here and as you continue to read you will find out why.

                The second day I woke up feeling rested and more like my happy go lucky self. Even though I am in the middle of these beautiful mountains the weather was quite nice. After a delicious breakfast of toast, omelet, and fruit a couple of us decided to go and explore what Paro had to offer. As we walked in this foreign area, taking roads that lead to small shops and schools, we stumbled upon the most beautiful hotel. It was like a mini castle in the middle of nowhere.  It was a sight to see in a town that people have made roofs out of tin and  are held down by stones.  Of course walked into the hotel without warning and began to explore. Little did we know we would find a secret garden inside these castle walls. It was incredible the views around us, so I decided to sit, think, and take it all in.         

                Soon after, the rest of our group members began to arrive. The last 3 arrivals were girls Canada and the United States. They are also wonderful individuals. Everyone here has their own special qualities, which is why we were all chosen.

                That day we left for Thimphu in our tourist bus, which would eventually become our means of travel for the next 5 days. They piled our bags on top of the van like a puzzle and I was sure mine was going to be the one fall off the top …with a 1hour and ½  drive ahead of us . The drive itself was the most beautiful and frightening drive I had ever been on. We saw rice fields of beauty, ruins of old buildings, and construction of new buildings, Prayer flags stretched across the many mountains. I don’t know how they managed that one (which I later heard that the Bhutanese threw them and the wind carried them) so mystical.  This sight looked like an impossible feat. As we drove on we saw tin roofed bus stops in the middle of what seemed like nowhere, small villages, markets and beautiful Bhutanese people. After many laughs on the bus with such quotes as “inconvenience regretted” and sharing stories from home…we finally arrived in Thimphu, the wonderful beautiful capital of Bhutan.  A very busy and happening place compared to Paro. The streets were filled with people and dogs. I have no other thoughts at this moment to think of how to describe it and I will re- write that part when I get a chance and a proper thought. I loved it here the moment I set foot here. It immediately reminded me of downtown Quito, Ecuador. Even the smell of exhaust and the people were strong reminder of what I missed in Ecuador. As we arrived at the Dragon Roots hotel we were treated from what I felt like was royalty. We were given our keys to the most beautiful rooms and I would soon to find out of the most the helpful and polite staff at a hotel that ever exisited. As I settled into my room with Iman again, it really hit me as we were about to embark on the most amazing adventure in small country.

                The following days were filled with meeting different people from all walks of life and royalty. I was so honored to meet Minister of Education, Lyonpo Thakur S Powdyel who is one of the most well-regarded figures in the Bhutanese education system,  not only because he is the education minister, but because he is remembered by many of the Bhutanese as an exceptionally inspirational teacher, mentor and critic. He is by far one of the most influential people in Bhutan. He is very welcoming and made each and every one of us feel welcome here. He spoke of what Gross National Happiness meant to him and his country, he spoke of what the face of education is in Bhutan, and he spoke of how much he appreciated our duties to improve the Bhutanese education system. This was by far the most moving speaker I had ever heard. Sitting in MOE headquarters I had to hold back my tears and realize right there the impact I am making on this country, by just having a love for education and teaching. Right then in there; half way across the world I had the revelation of why I love being an educator and the impact it can make on an entire country. Just amazing. I left there feeling a sense of pride and I hadn’t even begun to start teaching.

Friday, January 20, 2012

Leaving everything I know as "Home"

I am leaving in less than 10 hours from now and up until now I never realized how much I will miss everything and everyone that make my home, "home." After receiving countless gifts, letters, and much more , I am ready to say goodbye. Things I am going to miss the most: family, friends, food, driving, and my co-workers. Things I am most looking foward to doing and seeing: Himalayas, another culture, meeting my new students, meeting new people, and making lifelong connections with individuals who live a half a world away. I am proud of myself for doing this ...you only live once. However, everything and everyone will be missed. I know that my last (2) post have been short, but keep in my mind they will be more in depth and detailed, as soon as I am settled in. I know I will have much more to write about especially about new my experiences. Many of  you already know that it will be humorous and very adventerous...so please continue to follow. Well, I guess I will write when I am on the the other side. Goodbye USA and hello, BHUTAN. I hope they are ready for me!!